Monday, May 7, 2012

Everest Trek and Altitude Sickness


This week we had to send a helicopter to Tangbuche to rescue a trekker with altitude sickness, or Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS).  I have always thought "mountain sickness" is a bit of misnomer, so I prefer to call it Altitude Sickness.

Every year thousands of people head for the trekking route that leads to Everest Base Camp. The majority of them take the hike of a lifetime, but for some the journey becomes uncomfortable and leads to unbearable.
We don't know why certain people are affected by Altitude Sickness, also called Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), and others are not.   But here's what we DO know: You can take certain measures to help prevent it's onset.
1) Drink Plenty of Water
2) Try Cocoa - pure dark chocolate.  (Mountaineers do not carry chocolate just to pass out to kids; it was a long held Native American cure to chew Coca leaves to relieve altitude sickness.)
3) ACCLIMATIZE  - In our 14 day Everest Base Camp trek, we have two very important days to rest and acclimatize to altitude, but if you are not in a hurry, why not do a 16 day trek and go at a leisurely pace?   If you get AMS, you will not make it at all, so you might as well take it easy.

Trekker in Distress
So, what happens if you have done all of that, and you still get AMS?  This happened to us this week with a couple who were on our EBC trek.  Both were very physically fit thirty-somethings and enjoyed on outdoor lifestyle in their home country.  (And can I just digress for a second, I don't care where you live and how outdoorsy you are, unless you have been living in the Hindu Kush or similar, nothing Western style "outdoorsy" is like the Himalaya.   For some, it is complete and utter culture shock.)  Anyway, on the 3rd day into their Everest trek, the husband started having symptoms of AMS.  He was vomiting continuously, had a headache, and was severely constipated (this is not an official symptom, but can make the others just that much worse).

Experienced Guide Makes a Difference
Our guide, Maila, knew he had to get him to lower altitude, so he reversed the group and took them down from 5000 meters to a lodge at 2600 meters.    By now, our client, let's call him Dan, had been very uncomfortable for about 2 days.  The lower altitude should have relieved his symptoms, but it did not.   Dan took his altitude meds, saw a doctor at the lodge, and still continued to feel bad.

Helicopter to the Rescue
For many trekkers, the lower altitude helps them feel better, and sometimes they continue on with their trek.  But Dan's wife made the call, she had travelers insurance and she wanted a helicopter.   We had one at her lodge by the next morning.  I am happy to report that Dan is in Kathmandu and feeling much better.  There are still a lot of cool things for him to do in Kathmandu that are NOT high altitude and he has joined a rock climbing and kayaking trip with Hardcore Nepal, our extreme adventure team.

The Good News...
But here's what is good about this whole thing.  First, that Dan and his wife, Sara, were smart enough to have insurance, the bill for a helicopter evacuation from that area starts at $5000 USD.    There are NO trekking agencies that pay this for you; all of them (including us) have an agreement clause that clearly states you understand that you are on an extreme adventure and you are responsible for your own medical care.  And let's be honest, in a country where most of the citizens have very limited access to even basic health care, this is fair.    So, if you are coming to Nepal, just pay the bit extra for travel insurance.  I have known several tourists to our region who have benefited from it.
Second, Dan and Sara, booked with a trekking company (ours) that was knowledgeable, well-connected and customer service oriented.   Aren't they all, you ask?   No, they are not.  Remember, this is a developing country.   Business ethics and standards can be very different than what you are used to.  Some companies are great, but others may not even have the idea of what type of service is expected from clients from the west.  So, choose wisely traveler!  You don't have to trek with TREKT Himalaya; there are a lot of good companies (of course I think ours is the best), but just try to establish a rapport early to be sure they got your back when you need them.

Contact me at TREKThimalaya.com

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