Sunday, November 7, 2010

Trekking Everest Area -- Choose Shoes Wisely

If you will be walking the 14-16 day Everest Base Camp trek, the most important article of clothing you will have is your shoes.   Mind you, by the end of the trek, you will probably never want to see them again, but during your sojourn they will be your best friend.   So, choose the right shoes (and have a back-up) and plan wisely. 

So many people ask me, do I buy my trekking shoes (clothes) at home, or wait until I get to Nepal?   For shoe advice, I can not be too clear -- broken in is better.   So, get your trekking shoes as early as possible and be sure the are well worn-in.  

Here's what you need to look for:

Flexible (walking soles)
Supportive ankles
Semi-Waterproof (at least in toe area)
Wide enough to wear a good pair of socks (but not loose after you lace them)
At least 1 size bigger than you normally wear (your toes will take a pounding on the way down if they are your regular size)
Lightweight (every kg you have make a difference on this trek)

I like the hiking sport shoes that seem to be everywhere now.  They are half hiking boot, half sport shoes and they work really well.   Check out anything from affordably priced Nike to higher end Keen, 5.10, and other outdoor/climbing specific shoemakers.    

Take a pair of slip-on sandals for your trek.  I recommend a pair that you can leave your socks on with (as opposed to thong flip-flops), because it will be cold where you are.   You will want to take off your shoes each day as soon as you get to your tea house stop, and after the 4th or 5th day, the thought of putting on your trekking shoes more than you have to will be daunting.   Just slip on the sandals, you will be happy you have them.

I recommend packing light, and never taking more than you absolutely need.  But if you are not sure about your trekking shoes and if you may get blisters or toenail bruising, take a pair of lightweight sport shoes in your pack just in case.   YOU HAVE TO WALK NO MATTER WHAT.  So make sure your feet are top priority. 

Happy trekking!

Saturday, October 30, 2010

Trekking By Yourself -- Rewarding or Risky?

I have had tons of tourists come into my office in Kathmandu and ask, "Can't I just follow the map and trek to base camp myself?"  My answer is always, "Of course!"  But do you really want to?

The stories I get upon return of the self-trek are about 50-50.  Fifty percent say, it was fine and no problems.  The other fifty percent hired a guide at Lukla or Namche, and decided going alone just was not for them.  

In the past few years, many trekkers have gone missing while trekking alone.   And if common sense is your guide, it is clear that no matter where you are in the world, setting out on a lone adventure always holds it's share of danger.  Since the disappearance of American trekker, Aubrey Sacco, in the Langtang area of Nepal in April 2009, I no longer recommend trekking alone to anyone. 

The Himalayan landscape is unique and extremely rugged.  The extreme climbs, deep drop-offs, and narrow ledges come as a surprise to many first-time trekkers.  Tourists need to watch every step.   If you are alone, what will you do when you sprain your ankle, begin suffering from AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness), or it is starting to get dark and you have no idea how far the next village is.   What if there are no more rooms available when you actually reach the next village?

If you go on an organized trek or with a guide from one of the hundreds of trekking agencies in Kathmandu, you have the benefit of enjoying the Himalayan trails, talking with the locals (unless you speak Nepali, who will translate for you?) and getting care should you need it.   The price for a guide is relatively inexpensive, and the upside is, you are employing someone in an economy where unemployment is over 50%, and the per capita income is around $400.

If you are the type that likes being alone and a more do-it-yourself style trek, ( I get it --- there is more reward in being quiet, peaceful, and alone in the majesty of the Himalayas), you can hire a porter at Lukla.   But just remember, he is your employee now, and you will have to take care of everything.  It is best to know at least a little Nepali if you are going to go this route.  That way you can communicate with your porter, and help negotiate your lodging and meals en route.   Remember, porters are not guides, they are people who carry your pack and show you they way, you should expect little else.   A "trekking guide" speaks English, knows what Westerners expect, and arranges all of your meals, lodging and entertainment.  In Nepal, guides are registered with the Nepal Guide Association and the companies for which they work should be registered with the Trekking Agents Association of Nepal (TAAN). 

It's important to hire a reputable agency (small is fine; just make sure they are registered) because there have been a few stories of trekkers being ditched by their guide after day 2 of a 14 day trek.  Mind you they had already paid in full for their meals, lodging and guide.  The guide, having over 80000 (1100 USD) Nepalese Rupees with him for their expenses just disappeared -- and it's easy to do in Nepal (as mentined above). 
So, choose the trekking experience that is right for you.   Do your homework, learn some Nepali (even a one week crash course in Kathmandu will help) and NEVER go alone. 

Whichever way you go, get ready for a trek of a lifetime.  The Nepal Himalayas are amazing, the Sherpa, Rai and Tamang villages idyllic, and the experience is "priceless."

Monday, October 25, 2010

Chhewang Nima Sherpa (43), 19 Time Everest Summiter Lost in Avalanche

The search is on for veteran Everest climber Chhewang Nima Sherpa.  Sherpa is reported lost in an avalanche on Mt. Baruntse on Oct. 23, 2010.   As of this report the search is continuing for Chhewang Nima Sherpa.  Sherpa was on an expedition for Sherpa Shangila Treks.  To read more go to http://www.everestnews.com/

Thursday, October 21, 2010

Trekking Season Is On... Are you there?

Into Thin Air: A Personal Account of the Mt. Everest DisasterDark Summit: The True Story of Everest's Most Controversial SeasonThe Top of the World: Climbing Mount Everest

We are at the height of trekking season in Nepal.  If you are there, you know flights are packed, buses are jammed with people (and goats) riding inside outside and on the roof!  There are ups and downs to trekking to Everest Base Camp during the Dashain/Tihar (Oct/Nov) Season in Nepal.   I'll start with the downs, so we can end on a good note... 

Happy trekkers set out for Lukla
The downside is that the trekking paths can be overcrowded (like the buses and flights) with tourists.  And of course, you have the supply and demand effect when it comes to pricing.   When it is off season, you can do an organized trek for under $1000 (USD), but in peak season you will pay likely upward of $1300.  That's because everyone is working, and everything from yaks to Yeti Airlines seats are already booked.   And if you were looking to be a sole Westerner on the Himalayan highland routes, forget it!  There are enough people that you could just follow the foreigners ahead of you... forget the guide.   Just kidding, you will need him to help you navigate and get a decent rate for room and food at your teahouse stops.  

BUT here's the plus -- the upside of this busy season...


Dashain tika in family home.
 October and November are handsdown the best weather months in Nepal.  Not just for the mild temperatures, but also for the clear skies.  This is really the best time to view the Himalayas from almost any place in the nation.  If you are into photography, the sun seems to be your great golden ally this time of year.  With all the colorful festivals happening, this is your chance for those dream shots!  Plus, you will likely have the opportunity to participate in local puja (tika) and other celebrations for the Dashian.  Tihar is really special.  Also called Dipawali, this is the festival of lights, and villages will have fires, lights and candles burning.  Dipawali is more of a Hindu holiday, but you will find variations in some Sherpa villages. 

So, if you don't mind the hustle of the airports and busses, this is a good time to trek and after experience the lively nightlife of Kathmandu or Pokhara (I recommend the latter).  But if you want a quieter trek, consider later in the season (December) or March.   The only time I do not recommend is July - August, unless full-on Monsoon adventures sound like a challenge you'd enjoy.

p.s. -- early season (Sep.-Oct.) trekkers - watch out for leeches!

Want to know more?  Visit http://www.mounteveresttreks.com/ or email me and the team at sandra@hardcorenepal.com

Monday, October 18, 2010

Highest Point on Earth goes High Tech

You going for the world's highest trek?  Well, it's just gone high tech.  Amazing when from most directions it is still a good weeks walk from anywhere.  But thanks to an American communications company, you can now "Tweet" from the top of the world.   Apparently American climber Eric Larsen sent a message on Twitter from his 8,000 meter view to share with the world.  He used a new gadget, the Earthmate PN-60.   For those of you who must stay wired while in Nepal -- check this out.

http://www.pressherald.com/news/maine-delorme-gps-popular-mechanics-award-tweet-mount-everest.html