Saturday, October 30, 2010

Trekking By Yourself -- Rewarding or Risky?

I have had tons of tourists come into my office in Kathmandu and ask, "Can't I just follow the map and trek to base camp myself?"  My answer is always, "Of course!"  But do you really want to?

The stories I get upon return of the self-trek are about 50-50.  Fifty percent say, it was fine and no problems.  The other fifty percent hired a guide at Lukla or Namche, and decided going alone just was not for them.  

In the past few years, many trekkers have gone missing while trekking alone.   And if common sense is your guide, it is clear that no matter where you are in the world, setting out on a lone adventure always holds it's share of danger.  Since the disappearance of American trekker, Aubrey Sacco, in the Langtang area of Nepal in April 2009, I no longer recommend trekking alone to anyone. 

The Himalayan landscape is unique and extremely rugged.  The extreme climbs, deep drop-offs, and narrow ledges come as a surprise to many first-time trekkers.  Tourists need to watch every step.   If you are alone, what will you do when you sprain your ankle, begin suffering from AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness), or it is starting to get dark and you have no idea how far the next village is.   What if there are no more rooms available when you actually reach the next village?

If you go on an organized trek or with a guide from one of the hundreds of trekking agencies in Kathmandu, you have the benefit of enjoying the Himalayan trails, talking with the locals (unless you speak Nepali, who will translate for you?) and getting care should you need it.   The price for a guide is relatively inexpensive, and the upside is, you are employing someone in an economy where unemployment is over 50%, and the per capita income is around $400.

If you are the type that likes being alone and a more do-it-yourself style trek, ( I get it --- there is more reward in being quiet, peaceful, and alone in the majesty of the Himalayas), you can hire a porter at Lukla.   But just remember, he is your employee now, and you will have to take care of everything.  It is best to know at least a little Nepali if you are going to go this route.  That way you can communicate with your porter, and help negotiate your lodging and meals en route.   Remember, porters are not guides, they are people who carry your pack and show you they way, you should expect little else.   A "trekking guide" speaks English, knows what Westerners expect, and arranges all of your meals, lodging and entertainment.  In Nepal, guides are registered with the Nepal Guide Association and the companies for which they work should be registered with the Trekking Agents Association of Nepal (TAAN). 

It's important to hire a reputable agency (small is fine; just make sure they are registered) because there have been a few stories of trekkers being ditched by their guide after day 2 of a 14 day trek.  Mind you they had already paid in full for their meals, lodging and guide.  The guide, having over 80000 (1100 USD) Nepalese Rupees with him for their expenses just disappeared -- and it's easy to do in Nepal (as mentined above). 
So, choose the trekking experience that is right for you.   Do your homework, learn some Nepali (even a one week crash course in Kathmandu will help) and NEVER go alone. 

Whichever way you go, get ready for a trek of a lifetime.  The Nepal Himalayas are amazing, the Sherpa, Rai and Tamang villages idyllic, and the experience is "priceless."

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